House Hunting Again

After months of ambiguity — of not knowing when we would be forced out of our house by our landlord’s financial woes — the time has finally come. Our landlord has sold our current place and we are having to relocate to another house. Though there are things about our current home we will certainly miss, we are actually pretty excited about our new house!

During this state of limbo, when we found out that we might have to move, we began house hunting again. And let me tell you! House hunting in Tanzania looks quite a bit different from what we are all used to in the U.S.

In my dreams, house hunting would look like this: either search the newspaper adds, search the internet, or even drive up and down cute neighborhoods watching for “For Rent” signs. After finding a number of favorites and seeing inside, we would consider the lay-out of the house, the size, the location, the yard, the cost, etc.

Of course we still considered each of those things here as well but those are not the first things we looked at.

First, we had to find the houses that are for rent. They don’t usually (almost never) have “For Rent” signs in the front window and there is definitely not a website of available houses.  Most of the time, we learned about a house through a friend or acquaintance as word spread that we were searching. Sometimes, we would even just walk up to the gate of a vacant looking house and ask. It was actually quite amazing how many houses started coming out of the wood-work once we started inquiring about them.

We usually knew within seconds whether a house was going to be a good option or not. We thought much less about the lay-out and much more about whether the place had plumbing yet. Less about the style and more about how much of a fixer-upper it was. Here are a few of the many houses that we looked at. We were not trying to be picky… and there were great things about many of them! But, there is a lot to consider when choosing a new home.

Most of the houses we saw looked a lot like this, but usually more run-down and in great need of repair.

Due to the influx of gas companies in town lately, there were also quite a few brand new  or almost-finished houses, like this one. Most were flashier than what we’re looking for, and also out of our price range. This house had a great layout. But no yard and… well, it was VERY GREEN!

This downtown apartment had a whole lot of potential. It had awesome courtyard and an enchanting rooftop terrace overlooking the town. But the amount of work to be done on it was quite overwhelming.

Something about this house felt magical — an old, neglected, gorgeous house. But it lacked plumbing and many other key things. The amount work to be done was huge and it was way out of our price range. So, it still sits neglected.

Another recent construction aimed at the gas companies, this little house sat in the middle of a palm tree village on the edge of town. And though we liked the location, it felt too flashy sitting next to mud huts. Not too mention… their asking price was exorbitant.

This was a great house. Beautiful and not too much work. But it felt a little too big for the two of us. And, again, was too expensive for our budget.

It was hard not to feel discouraged as we searched…. Until we came across this house:

This is it! Our new house!!! It was one of the only houses that met all of our criteria. Great location, good size, and within our price range. And though it needed a good deal of work the landlord was willing to do the most important renovations before we move in! We called it the Pi Theta Phi House at first because it was painted the colors of my college Social Club! And though my blood will always run Orange and Blue, I never envisioned living in a house those colors; but, thankfully, the landlord has already repainted the outside a more neutral color.

We are so thankful to have found this place. We are planning to move in this week once the paint dries, and we are very excited finally feel more settled! More pictures to come!

4th Anniversary!!!

As of yesterday, May 17th, we have been married for 4 years!! In commemoration, I thought I’d post some random photos of us from various travels and events over the past 4 years (mostly the past couple years). Enjoy.

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Dobby the House Cat

Hello friends,

I drafted a blog post last week, introducing you to our kitty, Dobby. We adopted this little orphaned kitten a few days before Christmas. She was a sweet, needy little thing, being about 4 weeks old when we got her. We couldn’t decide what to name her until Sarah pointed out that she looked identical to Dobby the House Elf from the Harry Potter movies. It was true. I wouldn’t be surprised if they were distantly related somehow. The name stuck and she became an important part of our home here in Mtwara.

But my drafted blog post still sits in my drafts folder because this past weekend, she went missing. We have searched for her, called her, and left food out for her. But, she has not come home. Our neighbors all have been very kind, assuring us that if they see her, they will bring her home. And though I am holding on to a thin thread of hope that she will squeeze through our hedge and come bouncing over the tall grass after an epic journey; the reality is that I think she is gone.

Over this past year, not only did we lose Dobby, but also, my childhood dog and cat, Penny and Oscar, both passed away. They were both very old and had lived full, happy lives in our little Tennessee valley. And at the risk of being a bit melodramatic, I thought I would post this blog and remember these animals and the joy they brought.

Penny (otherwise known as Pen-Pen or Penny Pooter)

Oscar (otherwise known as Osky or Oscar the Grouch)

And Dobby, who turned out to be a really beautiful cat, despite her scrawny childhood.

I am a bit hesitant to admit just how much I miss these animals, but there… I just did. Penny and Oscar were faithful friends during my growing up years and Dobby has been a sweet little companion the last few months as I continue to adjust to life here. But more than missing them, I am so thankful for the joy they brought to me and my family.

Photo Summary: February & March 2012

These past few months have been fast-paced and non-stop for us. Amidst language school, village trips, and meetings around East Africa, we’ve fallen a few blog posts behind. So here’s a quick summary post that we hope will catch you up on the major events… in pictures.

January 30 – February 17: Three-week language program at State University of Zanzibar

We had class from 8 to 12 every day. This is our teacher, Mwalimu Farouq.

We lived with a local Zanzibari family as a part of this immersion program. We ate all our meals with them and visited into the night, all in Swahili. This is our host mother, Mama Rahma.

Mama Rahma's daughter, Amal, was also a good language helper.

We were also able to attend some special events, such as this engagement party.

February 20 – 24: East Africa Men’s Retreat at Rondo Retreat Center in Kenya

Every year a different team around East Africa plans this event and brings in a speaker. It is a great time for us to be challenged as well as to connect with and learn from others around the region doing work similar to ours.

One of the many old houses at Rondo Retreat Center, which is located in the beautiful Kakamega Forest.

While passing through Nairobi on my way to and from the retreat, I was able to spend a fun evening with my two good friends Murithi and Mwenda, both of whom I grew up with as a child in Kenya.

February 27 – March 9: Back in Mtwara

After a month out of Mtwara, it was great to be back in town. We tried to hit the ground running, making the rounds to greet our friends around town and get updated on any news. We also quickly made plans to head out to some villages to build some developing relationships and to have some more good Swahili immersion time. So our first week back we spent Thursday in a village area on the edge of Newala, Thursday night in Tandahimba, and Friday in the village of Chikongo, where we made plans to return for a much longer stay in April. Monday the following week we attended a surprise wedding ceremony near Newala (we’ll have to write more about that in another blog post); then we spent Monday night in Newala and Tuesday traveling to nearby villages with the groom to announce the news of his wedding to his friends and relatives who hadn’t heard.

Women singing to the bride inside the hut as a part of the wedding ceremony.

The men wait outside the hut, bearing witness as the groom and father of the bride solidify their agreement as overseen and prayed for by a local Muslim leader.

The ceremony continues.

Singing Makonde songs as we drive the bride and groom to the groom's home after the ceremony.

March 14 – 27: Tanzania Meeting, Visiting Rangi Church near Mwanza, and East African Women’s Retreat.

Group photo at the Tanzania Meeting.

Following the Tanzania Meeting, Lauren and the team girls headed off to the Women's Retreat on Lake Kivu in Rwanda.

Lake Kivu in Rwanda.

While our wives were at the Women's Retreat, the men (plus Reed and Aletheia) spent 3 days with the Rangi church near Mwanza.

The Rangi church has been extremely helpful to our team in many ways, and we are very thankful for them and for the time we have been able to spend with them last month.

We are very grateful to have been able to participate in these events across East Africa and believe that the work we do here in Mtwara will undoubtedly benefit as a result of this time. But we’re glad to be back in town and to be getting back into a more regular routine here in Mtwara.

The Village Mtegu

Two and a half hours later we pulled into Mtegu, a small Makonde village. Mud huts lined the dusty road, palm trees overhead. Small crowds gathered around various homes, and local traders arranged makeshift shops alongside the road. It was the week of an important cultural celebration. “Here. Turn here,” said RB, and we turned down a thin path, our car squeezing tight between trees and huts. RB, our mlinzi (night guard), is a fun-loving guy with a contagious laugh and smile, but as we neared his home village, he masked his excitement with a serious look of pride.

Singing suddenly filled the air around us and a crowd of dancing women stood before us as we rounded the corner. Singing and dancing, they led us to where we should leave our car, and continued to welcome us into their village through song as we climbed out and greeted everyone with confused smiles. We had not expected to be welcomed as guests of honor but as we were whisked off to sit under a shade tree, their hospitality made us feel as such. Different members of RB’s family occasionally came over to introduce themselves and to bring us fruit or a cold coke. They took turns sitting with us, talking or not talking but always staring. We were a novelty as the only wazungu (Europeans/Americans/white people) for miles. We too couldn’t help but stare in wonder at all the activities going on around us. Groups of people would spontaneously break out in song and dance as they wandered between the mud houses and palm trees. RB explained to us that this weekend was a celebration of children.


The celebrations of the following days were elaborate and exciting. We enjoyed joining in the celebration, attempting to sing along in KiMakonde when we could learn the words, and soaking in the new experience. Along with everyone else, we were sprinkled with white flour. When we asked the purpose of the white dusting, the answer was simple: it is to show everyone you are a part of the festivities.

When RB asked us if our car could be a part of their parade, which would be the finale of the celebration weekend, we were excited to be able to contribute something to the big event. As the only car in the village, it’s white paint stood out even more than our white skin. In preparation for the parade, they decorated it with colorful kangas and palm tree leaves. As the parade began, more and more people piled in and on the decorated car. There must have been 17 people inside the car and at least eight on top! The Landcruiser seemed to come alive as it swayed in rhythm with it’s passenger’s dancing and song.

It was fascinating to watch the parade move forward, being made up of and also swallowed by masses of people. Our large, decorated Land Cruiser obediently followed the procession through the street. From our spot in the car, we could see that the focus of the procession was the children of the village. We could see many of them pass by, being carried on their fathers’ shoulders. Each child held a colorful umbrella, shielding them from the hot sun. The heat, dust, and white powder hung in the air like a thick cloud, pulsing with the holiday music, somehow reminding us of Christmas despite all its differences.

Though we asked many questions, many of the traditions we observed were deeper than we could understand, at least in the few days we were there. After we said our goodbyes and thank-yous, we loaded up the car with our many gifts of mangos, papayas, and cashews and headed home. As the music faded behind us and the palm trees grew small in our rearview mirror, we began to process the events of the last few days. We felt privileged to witness such an occasion and overwhelmed by the hospitality we were shown. And as we look to the future we look forward to understanding more about our host culture and to deepening the relationships with our new found friends in the village of Mtegu.

A Tropical Christmas

Christmas Mangos

I can’t believe that it is Christmas time again! And, though I am not proud of it, I have to admit that I have been a bit (ok, very) hesitant to let the Christmas season approach this year. I am usually standing with arms wide open to embrace everything Christmasy! But this year has been different as we are far from family again in a tropical land. I have found myself humbugging around — finding much more in common with Scrooge and the Grinch than Santa or any of his elfs.

One hot day in November, I even sprinted across the house when I heard a rogue Christmas song ring-a-ling onto my itunes playlist. I was not sprinting out of joy… no, I was racing to get to the computer as fast as possible so I could skip it. I believe the song was Amy Grant’s “A Tender Tennessee Christmas”, one of my all time favorites. However, I just couldn’t listen to it this year.

People have asked me before what the hardest thing about living here is. Though there are a number of various challenges, being far from family definitely takes the cake. The Christmas cake. And I think it is especially hard during the holidays.

Thankfully, I was reminded of something a wise person once said, “The best way to spread Christmas cheer is singing loud for all to hear” (Buddy the Elf.) These wise words really pricked my hardening heart, so one weekend in early December we decided it was time to decorate!

We had to be a bit more creative this year since evergreen trees are not to be had in these parts. But we cranked up some christmas music (welcome back, Amy Grant), pulled out our Christmas boxes that arrived on the container, and we let the Christmas season in. And I am pleased to announce that I am feeling much more cheerful. So if you hear a faint sound of Christmas music being carried in the wind, it might just be the sound of me and Travis belting out Christmas songs to keep the Spirit of Christmas in the air. Merry Christmas everyone!!

Here are a few pictures of us building our Christmas tree with supplies we found in the market:

We went to the market to find makings for a christmas tree and this is what we came up with!

It's beginning to look a lot like... Christmas??

There may not be any evergreen trees around here, but we have an abundance of beautiful fabrics!

Lights!

What is Christmas with no snow? (at least a fake green snowflake or two!)

Karibu (welcome) Santa!

Voila! Merry Christmas Everyone!

P.S. Check out our new favorite Christmas Album:  She & Him’s new Christmas album! We are loving it!

First Impressions: by my nose.

As children, we learn new words daily. Most of them we don’t even remember learning; they just merge into our vocabulary, settle in, and jump into sentences whenever they can. I don’t know about you, but I have a handful of words that I actually remember learning. They are attached to a specific memory or a certain person. For me, the word olfactory is one of those words.

ol·fac·to·ry: [ol-fak-tuh-ree] of or pertaining to the sense of smell.

My Grandfather Greek introduced this word to me when I was young. I remember sitting around the table together eagerly waiting for dinner. We couldn’t see the food yet, but our noses told us it was going to be good! He is a master of words and took the opportunity to introduce me to this seemingly insignificant word. Little did he or I know, this word would become a word I think about almost every day here in Tanzania.

Now, as my parents and my husband can affirm, I have always had a very keen olfactory sense. And for those of you out there who have the same keen sense, you know that with this gift comes a very sensitive gag reflex. This, let me tell you, is not a gift! My family could all tell you plenty of stories… but that is not what I want to talk about right now.

I have been trying to figure out how to put into words all of my “First Impressions” of Tanzania as I settle back into life here after our short jaunt to the U.S. for my sister’s wedding. As I thought about it I realized that many of these impressions come to me in the form of a smell. I wish I could capture them all for you, bottle them up, and send them wafting your way. (Well, you might be grateful that technology has not developed that far yet: some are definitely more pleasant than others!)

The first thing I thought when I stepped off the airplane onto the tarmac was that the rains must have started. I know that many of you know the smell I am talking about. It is of dust settling as the rains clear the air. This is one of my favorite smells in the world. To me, it smells like Africa. It smells like my childhood home in Kenya. It smells like Tanzania, the home I am learning to love now.

After walking across the black tarmac from the plane and entering the small Dar Es Salaam airport, the smell of rain vanished into a thick cloud of un-airconditioned, stale air. Tanzania does not smell like french fries (see previous Where’s Waldo post). It smells like clean sweat mixed with hard-working soap. What do I mean by that? Well, after living here on the coast of Tanzania for a year, sweating has become a larger part of my life than ever before. Boy, is it hot!! Combine the heat with a lot of hard work, add how difficult it is to get good deodorant around here (if any at all), and we all are sitting in the same boat… a somewhat stinky one. The bars of soap try to keep up, but it is a big job! Usually it just adds a hint of something fresh to all our sweatiness. So, though this smell doesn’t sit as lovely on our noses as others, we have come to respect it, understand it, and, we must admit, actively participate in it.

I asked Travis what Tanzania smelled like to him as we drove through Dar toward our guesthouse for the night. (I am not usually this obsessed with smells, but this blog post was already formulating in my mind.) He said: burning trash mingling with tropical, fresh air. Now, there is a mixed bag of smells and emotions!

The next few days we ran many errands around town. (In our new car! Which smells like… a new car!) We drove up to Kitumbi, which is about 4 hours north of Dar to see some good friends, the Talleys, and then drove the long road south, about 10 hours south from Dar, to Mtwara. Exhaust and dust fill the air along these road-ways.

If you look at a map, you will see that our little town is right on the coast. And if you look even closer, you will see that our house sits about 4 minutes (walking) away from the water. So the smell of the ocean is never far away. Now, I do not claim to be an experienced coastal dweller. I am more of a mountain girl. But I have figured out that high tide and low tide have distinctly different smells. The warm breeze coming off the water at high tide is fresh and clean. I can see why there are candles and sprays named Ocean Breeze. But, the air coming off of low tide smells like mboga za baharini. (literally translated: vegetables of the ocean.) The smell is comforting and not unpleasant; however, I hope no one ever makes a perfume out of it.

Though the rains are slowly starting to begin, it is still pretty dry down here in the south. So as we bump along in our car, or ride our bikes down dirt roads, dust is the main thing we inhale. But, sometimes, I am almost certain that I can smell these blooming trees. Though November and December are our driest and hottest months, these breathtaking trees that line many of the roads in our small town, help me appreciate the season.

The market where I do most of my grocery shopping is a melting pot of smells. There are three areas that stand out above the rest: the vegetable stands, the spice kiosks, and the fish market. You all know what these things smell like — now, just magnify it by about 100% and you’ve got it! Here are some pictures to go along with your imagination.

Science has proven that smells and memories are closely linked. I know that, as my nose soaks in more and more smells during these early years of living in Tanzania, my memories are being made and solidified. Thanks for reading and sharing in my experience. And, thanks, Grandfather, for teaching me the word: olfactory. 

First Year Report

Below is a PDF file of our First Year Report: a brief report summarizing and reflecting on our first year working here in Tanzania, plus looking ahead to the future. It contains a short timeline of our year, an explanation of what we’ve accomplished this year, a brief action plan for the year to come, and some great photos from the year. We hope you enjoy. Just click on the image to open it up.

Click on the Image to Open the Report

Whale Season!

About 3 months ago I shot this footage of a lone Humpback Whale off the coast of Southern Tanzania, near the historic island of Kilwa Kivinje. That was our first ever whale-sighting! Since then we have seen 5 or 6 more, just off the coast near our house here in Mtwara. From late July/early August until around the end of September is whale season every year in this area as they pass by on migration, so we look forward to more whale sightings in the years to come.

The footage is really terrible since the water was a little rough and we never knew where the whale would come up next (plus we have to upload a low-resolution file due to internet speed and cost here), but here it is nonetheless. The final shot is the best, so hold out for that one.

Halloween

On arrival back in Mtwara after our short trip to the U.S., our first order of business was, of course, Halloween (Or as I, Travis, call it: THE GREATEST HOLIDAY OF ALL TIME… Lauren disagrees. But then, it’s hard to disagree with these photos:)

Our Everyday Clothes. We didn't have time to find costumes.

Travis the Maniacal Professor and Lauren the Biker-gang Guy

Creepy Biker-gang Guy

Disheveled Professor

The Fraser Family of Chefs

Aletheia the Ladybug

Unfortunately, we don’t have a photo of the whole Meeks family and their costumes, so won’t post theirs online. But they were pretty amazing as well! The Kellises were in South Africa at the time, and so not present for the party.